The year... 2004. The month...December. It was perfect. I remember hanging with Pete Santa Maria for a week and shooting perfect Pipeline Masters where I swam at in the channel for the first time. Backdoor, Off the Wall, Rocky Point, Rockpiles, it was all good… We went to Town where I celebrated my 21st birthday by getting drunk on tropical chick drinks and dancing with a 40 year old lesbian couple on an otherwise vacant dance floor. The next night while sleeping in Rob Machado’s lawn, I had a fit of nightmares... I was under fire on the battlefields of WWII with artillery fire booming all around me. I then awoke convinced there was a huge, endless earthquake... After a few sleepless hours, day broke and I looked over the Monstera plants to see 20 foot shore pound detonating on the beach mere feet from where I slept. The forecast had proven true and we laid claim to our spots on the far side of the bay and setup 16mm cameras and telephoto lenses...
Check out Pete's work at petesantamaria.tv/
- Additional Footage:
Pete Santa Maria
Nella by Gnarlight
- big wave